Woodworking Wood / How to Make Lumber
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Smaller items that need clamping can easily be done with masking tape. You do NOT need tons of pressure when gluing, often only enough to bring the 2 sides together so they don't move ... let them set for about 30 minutes and that is enough to bond the sides, though the glue will take longer to harden and set, many types of glue are workable in an hour or so.
In fact, often this little trick works BETTER than most double-sided tapes and it's easy to do. Basically, you put masking tape on both sides of the wood you want to clamp together, then run a bead of CA Glue down one side and spritz the other side with an accelerator, put the two sides together, and hold them for about 10 seconds. Instantly you have a super-strong bond that can be used for a variety of things.
I have known for years that laminated boards ... that is boards I glue together as I showed in the video, are very strong. So I decided to test it. As you can see from the results, according to my rudimentary testing, the glue really made no significant difference to the strength of the wood ... and I learned something new. and that it that the density of the wood appears to have more effect on the strength that the lamination ... at least with thicker more robust laminations.
I decided to throw this joint in at the last minute because I have had fairly good results with this joint. The system I have used is applying glue to the end grain of the wood, letting it dry (or near dry) then reapplying glue to both surfaces, clamping, and allowing the glue to cure for at least 24 hours. In this case, the joint failed very quickly and very noticeably, what is interesting is that it failed at about the same pounds of force as the pocket hole joint at around 175.
I expected the dowel joint to perform at least as well as the lap joint, the nice thing with the dowel joint is that it is without question the easiest joint to make and it performs exceedingly well. In my test, the dowel joint began to fail at around 225 pounds force, but in this case, it is clearly the fault of the wood as you can see none of the dowels broke and all of the tore the wood fibers from inside the 2x4.
I was pretty confident going in that the pocket hole would be among the poorest joints, especially for these softwood 2x4s and it was no surprise to find out that it started failing at only 100 pounds force, but because this joint uses mechanical joiners (long wood screws) the joint did not fall apart until it reached around 175 pounds force.
I discovered my jointer blade had rust on it, at first I wondered how that happened, but then I found that all the wood I had recently jointed was now all warped, uneven, not straight, and most of all ... not useable. What happened there?? Well when the wood is not dry, what happens you skim off the top of the wood that is dry, exposing the inside of the wet wood, that immediately starts to expel the moisture. The industry standard for moisture content of wood is 9%. #woodworking
The best technique for pushing wood through the jointer is starting off on the infeed table, but as soon as you can safely "grab" the wood on the outfeed table, put your pressure on the outfeed table and continue to push the wood through. If your wood has an arc or bow in it, the cupping must be down, depending on the thickness of the board. Then you may need to ease up on the pressure otherwise you are only transferring the cupping to a newly jointed side.
Here's a trick I adopted many years ago when I first discovered those anti-skid pads. I use one on my sand bench and it works great for 3 reasons, it stops the wood from moving around, it helps prevent the wood from getting banged or wear on the underside of the wood and the kind of anti-skid material with the holes tends to trap a lot of sawdust that would otherwise get up into the air. I NEVER sand without one. #woodworking
One of the tricks I learned while taking carpentry (house building) class was how to quickly measure the width of a board to find a center point for cutting it in half. This method works very well just make sure you use the same side of the tape or ruler each time. It's a quick accurate way to find centers and if you are decent a math, you can find thirds, quarters, etc. too.
Here's another bad idea that continues to float around the woodworking community, and that is making your own filler by mixing sawdust from your sander bag (which is very fine) with wood glue. Now, this is not a bad idea if you are going to PAINT over top of the filler, but if you are expecting to stain or dye the wood, or even just apply a finish like an oil or poly finish, this is a bad idea. #woodworking
The pictures here are the book-matched boards from the maple logs I milled. You can see that they are in fact spalted, but not even a hint of green. The spalting though evident, is not what I would call a "great specimen" yes they spalted, and yes they are usable, but I have many other boards that spalted naturally that are much more attractive. #woodworking
When making my own spalted wood, I used some Big Leaf Maple I had, that was still quite green (wet) but to make sure it would have enough moisture for my fungus culture to find its way into the wood, I also soaked the chunks of wood that 2 of them were approx. 2" x 8" x 14" while the 3rd one was about 20" long. #woodworking
One of the common things that often needs to be done to plywood, especially in cabinet making, is to hide or disguise the edge of the plywood by adding either a veneer strip or even gluing on a very thin piece of wood. This is called "Banding". The banding material can be purchased either as natural wood veneers, either natural or with a pre-applied heat-sensitive glue, which means the edging can be put on with an ordinary household iron, or glued off if you have selected a non-glue back version
In terms of cutting your own sheets accurately, I have a video on making your own circular saw jig that allows you to make very accurate cuts on plywood by simply using a better blade in your circular saw and making your own jig from a half sheet (cut lengthwise) of 3/8" construction grade plywood. #woodworking
Breaking down plywood is best done with CROSSCUT blades because the veneers inside are mounted diagonally to one another so half the wood is being crosscut while the other is ripped, but for this, we always use crosscut blades. In a circular saw blade, a cross-cut blade will have either 40 or 60 teeth whereas a ripping circular saw blade will have 24 teeth and is not ideal for cutting plywood and getting a nice clean cut. #woodworking
The top is what is called a Baltic Birch, which is utility-grade plywood, but a high-quality one and you can see the thin veneers and the number of them. The middle plywood is what is called a "cabinet grade" plywood. The bottom plywood is what is called a construction grade plywood.