Colin Knecht's Woodworking Tips and Tricks
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Speaking of glue-ups, I recently discovered even though I am very careful, I still manage to get glue on some of my bar clamps from time to time, which of course makes them hard or impossible to use. The quick fix for that was to use a softer version of a wire wheel on my cordless drill to gently remove the glue without disrupting the etchings along the side of the bars that are used for gripping. A quick easy way to clean up bar clamps.
Here's Tom's suggestion of having replaceable "catches" on the heel of your table saw push stick. As you can see in the picture below, my push sticks are too narrow to do this, but it looks like Tom's push sticks are 3/4" which is a nice size for a push stick, it gives you a good grip and you could easily use replaceable plastic catches on the end.
Being plastic does not easily tear unless it is assisted with some sort of a sharp instrument, like a knife or scissors, often making it a 2 handed operation, or 3 if you count holding the roll of packing tape. Jason's idea about using a "Zip Tie" to anchor the roll to a nail or other similar hook, then holding the roll with one hand and sniping the piece you want to take off with the other, makes for a much easier and quicker way of using packing tape.
Here's another simple but super useful tip where Tim uses glass jars, which you can see through, but how many of us take a moment to mount the contents on the OUTSIDE of the jar so we can see it better ... then I added the l-1/2" to the label so you can identify it too. Tim wraps his jar and labels in packing tape which is smart because that way label lasts a long time.
Holding the doweling material is more of a challenge, that's why it's easy to make a holding jig like shown in the picture below. It's easy and works like a charm. #woodworking #woodoworkingtip #woodworkingtips #drill #drillpress #woodworkingjig #woodworkingjigs #woodworkingclass #woorkingschool #knecht #woodworkweb
The place I often use arcs is when I am making table tops. When you are using a compass for this task, the question is, where is the pivot point if the pivot point is off, you end up with some sort of an oval, not a circle. The best way to find the pivot point is to lay a square down and align each side at the same distance.
If you have been in woodworking for a while, you have probably seen where people use Playing Cards, to elevate the blade above the workpiece and then trim it down from there ... I don't keep playing cards in my workshop! instead, I wood veneers, they are perfect for the job, and yet another use for veneers. If you don't have any veneers, you should pick yourself up a small amount, they are available in many places.
If you are marking wood, let's say it is finished wood and you don't want to leave pencil marks on it, but you still need to drill holes or other modifications. You have a couple of great choices, like Scotch Tape, not the glossy, but the matte look. You can mark it with pencil lead, but my go-to tape for this chore is Yellow Masking tape.
When it comes to repairing voids in wood with CA glue, there are 2 things to avoid. 1 - Don't use clear CA Glue 2 - Don't make a mess of your repair by using too much glue One of the things I love about Starbond is that it includes a small package of Micro Tips with each bottle of glue and these are very useful for making repairs like filling voids, cracks, and knot holes in wood. The best approach is to use a small amount and spritz the repair with the accelerator as you go along.
Every wood that I can ever recall working with has Knots or Crack or other Defects that are ALWAYS darker than the wood in which it is embedded. Below are Red Alder, Big Lear Maple, Douglas Fir, and Black Walnut, all of which have defects and all of which are DARKER than the base on which they grow. The quickest, easiest, and arguably the most stable way of fixing all these defects is with CA Glue. Starbond has 3 excellent options for this.
I have found that any of the metal wood rasps I have purchased are just too aggressive for most of what I do so making my own is inexpensive and works well as long as the double-sided tape held up, which wasn't long. I decided to try CA Glue and WOW ... what a difference. I can make a solid woodworking rasp now in less time than it takes me to fuss around with double-sided tape.
Here's a CA glue tip I use that I find most useful ... a dab of CA glue on the wood, then spritz the back of the metal hinge and bond it to the wood. It makes an excellent solid attachment and makes it much easier to drive screws that are well-placed. At one time I did use double-sided tape for this, which takes longer to fuss around with, and then it often comes off or comes loose even before I drill the first hole for the screws.
It is not at all unusual for me to make "Stop and Start" cuts on the table saw. Now what this means is that as you are working along and making cuts, and all the while the wood is erasing your lines as you are pushing the wood through the saw ... then your reach somewhere near where you expect the line on the throat plate to be ... and by the time you get there, it's gone and now you have no reference as to where to stop the cut. Far better